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Ahh the long S, bane of history students and a fixture of stuart era writing.
The Stuart period refers to the period of rule between James Ist and and the accession of George I of the House of Hanover. The execution of King Charles I by Parliament brought a temporary end to the rule of the Stuarts, when England became a Republic under Oliver Cromwell. The Stuarts were restored to the throne under Charles II in 1660.
The Stuart era was the time of: the Gunpowder Plot, civil and foreign wars, a regicide, a republic, the great plague, the Great Fire of London and the Glorious Revolution. This was the era of Shakespeare, Wren, Galileo, Newton and Pepys, to name but a few. The era saw the settlement of the Americas, trade with the Spice Islands, the birth of steam engines, microscopes, coffee houses and newspapers. The beginning of the industrial revolution and the dawn of the modern era.
In addition to the beginnings of modern industry the stuart era also saw the beginnings of more modern food. The addition of new ingredients from the americas, the invention of new cooking technologies like the standing stove, and changing beliefs about health and food from new medical discoveries began to change the culinary landscape.
This collar of pork is a good example of the changing tastes of the stuart era, while using more traditional medieval cooking methods it showcases the french influence of “Le Goute Natural” or “Natural taste” leaving the pork essentially untouched by spices or additional flavors, instead all the flavoring being provided by the accompanying sauce.
This is a traditional Stuart recipe for a classic dish of a breast of pork that’s bound, boiled until tender and then brined in beer, water and salt over night before draining, slicing and serving.
Recipe
Stuart Pork
To make a Collar of Brawn of a Breast of Pork (from Hannah Woolley’s Queen-like Closet 1670) 19. To make a Collar of Brawn of a Brea of Pork. Take a large Breaſt of Pork, and bone it, then roul it up, and tie it hard with a Tape, then boil it [in] water and Salt till it be very tender, then make Souce drink for it with ſmall Beer, Water and Salt, and keep it in it: Serve it to the Table with a Roſemary Branch in the middle of it, and eat it with Mustard.
Modern Redaction
Ingredients:
1 large breast of pork, boned
600ml light beer (about 3.5% ABV)
400ml water salt, to taste
Clean and trim the breast of pork then roll it tightly and secure with string along its length. Bring a pan of salted water to a boil, add the breast of pork and cook for about 70 minutes, or until tender. In the meantime, heat the beer, water and 100g salt in a pan until the salt has dissolved. When the pork has cooked set it in a deep-sided dish and pour over the ale mixture. Set a plate or a weight on top to keep the pork submerged, cover with clingfilm then set in the refirgerator to soak over night. When ready to serve, remove the pork from the brine and wash with plenty of cold running water. Slice and serve cold accompanied by a good mustard.
To make the best sort of mustard
This is a traditional Stuart recipe for a classic condiment of mustard powder blended to a paste with vinegar and seasoned with black pepper, shallot and sugar.
To make the best sort of Mustard (from Hannah Woolley’s Queen-like Closet 1670) 290. To make the best ſort of Muſtard. Dry your Seed very well, then beat it by little and little at a time in a Mortar, and ſift it, then put the Powder into a Gally-pot, and wet it with Vinegar very well, then put in a whole Onion, pilled but not cut, a little Pepper beaten, a little Salt, and a lump of ſtone Sugar.
Modern Redaction
Ingredients:
50g ground mustard
white wine vinegar to moisten (about 60ml)
1 shallot, peeled
1/2 tsp freshly-ground black pepper
1/2 tsp sea salt
1 lump of raw, crystallized, cane sugar
Sift the mustard powder into a bowl. Slowly work in the vinegar until you have a stiff but stirable paste (think somewhat thicker than double cream). Turn this into a jar and work in the black pepper and salt. Submerge the shallot and sugar in the mustard powder, seal the jar with a lid and set aside to mature for 1 week before use.
Actually Making the Food
The Breast of pork is not a very common cut anymore, thankfully the butcher at the local co-op was quite willing to do a little digging for us and we found something close.
Most everything else is easy enough to find but unfortunately Kaylee was confused as to what a shallot was, so we used a peeled green onion. This didn’t seem to hurt the mustard’s taste too much, but YMMV, so maybe er on the side of using the correct type.
Grinding by hand seems cool at first but it takes TIME and muscle power. Seriously we took turns grinding for about an hour and a half and only got the seeds cracked. If you want a more smooth paste we recommend getting a pre-ground mustard or using a coffee grinder to grind the seeds, we ended up with very grainy mustard with hand grinding.
Also, be careful with the vinegar when making the mustard! The first time we poured in the vinegar, we though we used a bit too much. So we poured off a bit, then once it sat for a bit the grains absorbed all of the vinegar leaving it a lump.
Tieing up the pork wasn’t super easy as neither of us had done it before but I’m sure if you’ve had some practice with it you could end up with something much neater. We also found out our pan was just a little too shallow to submerge it completely. Thankfully we figured out a historically accurate solution (see photo)
Eating it
Just like cold ham. Mustard was very nice with it, not too spicy and complemented the salty slightly yeasty taste of the pork nicely. It may be my modern sensibilities that find eating cold roast a bit ..weird… but I though it did taste a little better reheated.
I probably would make the mustard again, but not the pork. It was quite the bit of work for basically luncheon meat.
Links and referances
Recipes From Celtnet: http://www.celtnet.org.uk/recipes/stuart/
A Revolution in Taste: The Rise of French Cuisine, 1650-1800 – Susan Pinkard